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March 3, 2022
SAN ANTONIO MISSIONS NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK
6701 San Jose Dr, San Antonio, TX 78214
“San Antonio Missions National Historical Park is a National Historical Park and part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site preserving four of the five Spanish frontier missions in San Antonio, Texas, USA. These outposts were established by Catholic religious orders to spread Christianity among the local natives.” - Wikipedia
The missions of San Antonio were probably the most enlightening places I’ve visited, possibly in all of my journeys so far. The National Park consists of four different sites, Mission San Jose, Mission San Juan, Mission Espada, and Mission Concepcion, all relatively close to each other, not far from the San Antonio River. A fifth mission, Mission San Antonio de Valero, commonly called the Alamo, is owned and maintained by the state of Texas.
"The missions of San Antonio were far more than just churches, they were communities. Each was a fortified village, with its own church, farm, and ranch. Here, Franciscan friars gathered native peoples, converted them to Catholicism, taught them to live as Spaniards, and helped maintain Spanish control over the Texas frontier. The Franciscans established six missions along the San Antonio River in the early 1700s. Five of them flourished and, with the Villa de San Fernando, became the foundation of the city of San Antonio. Today the missions are elegant reminders of the contribution of Indian and Hispanic peoples to the history of the United States.” Sign board at each of the missions in the Historical Park.
While much of the original missions have deteriorated and/or have been destroyed, each still maintains an active Catholic church.
Mission San Jose y San Miguel de Aguayo (Mission San Jose)
Established in 1720, Mission San Jose was viewed as a model of Mission organization. The unique architecture of its church and the richness of its fields and pastures led visitors to comment on its beauty. The size of the complex bears witness to San Jose’s reputation as the “Queen of the Missions.”
Mission San Jose is where the National Parks Visitors Center is located. Unlike the other three missions, the walls surrounding the fortress (presidio) are still intact. The size of the complex was amazing. The present church was begun in 1758 and completed in 1782, and is still active today. It was closed for a funeral on the day I visited.
The exterior walls
The public gate.
The original west gate.
The native people lived in rooms along the outer walls.
Brick ovens were spaced all along the outer walls.
The front of the church.
A drawing showing what the exterior walls would have originally looked like.
A small patch of the original exterior decoration.
The Rose Window.
The Convento, where the missionaries lived. The roof was flat and did not survive.
The hall outside the Convento
A restored area of one of the rooms.
The restored Granary. Could hold enough grain to last one year.
A diorama showing life in the mission.
Acequias (irrigation ditches) provided water to irrigate the fields.
Mission Jose had one of the first grist mills in the country. It was operational from 1794 to 1809. (Restored in 2001).
Mission San Juan Capistrano (Mission San Juan)
Established in 1716, however, had to be moved to its present location in 1731. Mission San Juan had several problems, yet persevered, and by 1762 there were 203 Indians residing at the mission. Much of the exterior walls have disappeared through time, but one can see how big the mission was. The church was pretty small, it is assumed that construction was started on a larger church that was never completed mainly due to lack of labor in the latter years of the mission.
The present-day Church was constructed in about 1772; the exterior walls were covered with plaster 1984; major stabilization and preservation in 2012. The base of walls show the area where the Native Living Quarters were located.
Inside the Church.
Inside the Church
One of the plaques decorating the walls of the Church.
West Gate from the outside.
The West Gate. All visitors were scrutinized before being allowed into the Mission.
A drawing of what Mission San Juan probably looked like in the 1700s.
An area where the unfinished church was being built. Archeological excavations unearthed some graves which were then interred in this area.
Mission San Francisco de la Espada (Mission Espada)
Part of the first missions in Texas, Mission Espada was established in its present location in 1731. In 1794, Espada began the process of secularization or the transformation to a church-based community. However, the mission was impoverished. Each of the remaining 15 families received land, but shared equipment and supplies. In 1826, a band of Comanches raided the cornfields and killed the livestock. The same year, a kitchen fire destroyed most of the buildings; the chapel survived. Yet, people continued to make their home here. Today the church serves as the heart of this small community; mission descendants continue to worship here. Franciscans, clothed in their simple brown habits, work in the convento.
A view of what was Indian Quarters in 1700.
The Church on the right and the Convento (Priest's Residence) to the left.
The Convento
The Church
Inside the Church
A loom in the Mission Museum
The Espada Aqueduct, located about 1.5 miles from the Mission.
The Espada Aqueduct bringing water over the creek on its way to the Mission.
The Acequia, just past the aqueduct, taking water to the Mission.
Mission Nuestra Senora de la Purisima Concepcion de Acuna (Mission Concepcion)
The Church is about all that is left of Mission Concepcion. It has been 250 years since the mission Indians laid the last stone for their church. Except for the gradual disappearance of the colorful frescos, little of its appearance has changed. According to a Church docent, the paint on the interior of the sanctuary is original. A phenomenon happens every 15th day of August at 6:30 pm when, thanks to the Spanish Mission architects and the indigenous laborers who build Concepcion, a setting sun in the west cast rays of light through two glass openings. Google “Mission Concepcion double solar illumination” to see video of the amazing event.
The Convento. The height of the doors is not an optical illusion, the doors are all different heights.
The extensive art inside the buildings contains a blending of Christian, Spanish, and Native art elements. Experts restored original frescos on the convento walls and ceiling in 1988. The convento served as living and office space for the missionary.
One of the windows in the front of the Church that provides part of the double solar illumination on August 15th each year.